n/naka, 3455 S. OVERLAND AVENUE LOS ANGELES, CA 90034  |  310.83

“In years to come, when people look back on the transformation of Virgil Avenue and wonder how it all began, the answer will be Sqirl. The food here is stunning. Koslow serves rice bowls that will blow your mind, perked up with sorrel pesto, creamy feta and copious amounts of preserved Meyer lemon. Daily specials might range from tuna poke — a bowl of raw tuna spiked with yuzu, shiso from Sqirl’s garden and tuna-skin chicharrón — to handmade pastas, as good as any in town and for a fraction of the price. Koslow’s baking is remarkable, and her malva pudding cake is one of L.A.’s most craveable treats.”  —Besha Rodell